Maintaining Walls and Ceilings

6-inch taping knife 10- or 12-inch taping knife 1 square piece of plywood or a plastic mud pan Drywall compound Drywall tape (paper or fiberglass) Fine-grit sandpaper and a sanding block Here's how to stop that crack dead in its tracks:Clean out the crack so that there are no loose "crumbs." Put a blob of compound on the plywood or mud pan. This makes it easy to load compound onto the knife. Use the 6-inch taping knife to apply a light coating of compound to the crack and then immediately embed the tape in the compound.
Use the knife to wipe the tape into the compound and scrape away any compound that squishes out. If necessary, cut the tape in short lengths to follow the line of a really crooked crack. Fiberglass tape is self-stick, so you skip the embedding coat of compound under the tape. Otherwise, you do everything the same way. Be aware, though, that fiberglass tape is a little thicker than paper tape, so it is more difficult to make a completely invisible repair. We prefer the tried-and-true paper tape, and we think you'll get better results with it. Apply a thin coat of compound over the tape and smooth it with the taping knife, making sure to feather the edges. Let the patch dry completely (usually overnight). Apply a second, smoothing coat using the wide knife, again making sure to feather the edges. Let the second coat dry completely. Apply a third (and, with luck, final) coat. Let third coat dry completely. Sand the patch until smooth. Apply a coat of good-quality primer. Paint to match.

• Painting - Be sure to stir the paint thoroughly. Paint looks better and lasts longer if all its components are mixed well from the start. Three minutes is a good amount of time. Always paint a room from top to bottom. The job will go faster -- and turn out better -- if you follow this sequence:

• Paint the ceiling. Use a trim brush to cut in the edges of the ceiling where it meets the walls. Paint a 2- to 4-inch-wide strip that feathers out toward the middle of the room. Then paint the rest of the ceiling immediately. Start in a corner and paint across the narrowest dimension of the room.
• Paint the walls. Start when the ceiling is dry. Do one wall at a time. Use a trim brush to cut in where the walls meet the ceiling, around doors and windows, and along the baseboards.
• Paint the windows. Use an angular sash brush, and, if you prefer, a smaller brush for the dividers.
• Paint the doors. Use a trim brush. Work quickly but carefully. Don't forget to paint all the edges. Don't paint the hinges.
• Paint the door and window trim. Paint the edges and then the face.
• Paint the baseboards. Use a sash brush. Protect the floor or carpet with painter's tape or a paint shield.

Don't forget to clean your brushes and rollers thoroughly afterwards.

• Plastered ceilings - Nothing ruins the appearance of a room like a cracked ceiling. You can use caulking for the occasional small cracks, but for the best "new house look" you will probably need to re-spray a texture on the ceiling. This requires masking off the walls and the rest of the room.

• Textures - Finished drywall is often textured to give a more professional finish that is in keeping with the interior decoration. Here are some of the textures.

Popcorn - This is a heavy texture normally used on ceilings for helping to deaden sound, it also is the worlds best dust and dirt collector, will hide even the worst of taping jobs and is very difficult to paint.

Knockdown or "Skip trowel" - This most resembles a spanish style stucco.

Splatter or Orange peel - These textures range from a series of small "blobs" of splatter to an overall fine spray much like the texture of an orange peel.

Application of textures - For ceilings and large wall areas it is best to rent a drywall spray rig which is a small air compressor and a drywall hopper. You can purchase ready mixed spray materials in dry form and mix it on the job using a large 1/2" drill and mixing paddle also available at most rental centers. You mix the spray material the consistency of runny oatmeal, pour it into the hopper and spray. This is a very messy job as the spray goes all over the place so it requires that you mask off all areas that need protecting. The hoppers have a variety of holes on the face of the gun where you can adjust the size of the texture you are applying.

Other Options: You can apply most all the textures with a roller. The heavy textures like popcorn will not come out quite as even and uniform but there is a lot less mess from over spray. Most all wall textures are easy to apply using a roller. You will find a variety of brands at your local building or home supply center.

• Wood and paneling - There are three kinds of paneling: solid wood planks, plywood sheets, and faux-finished hardboard.

If you've got solid wood or plywood on the wall, there are a number of things you can do to make it look like new. Cleaning is the easiest and most effective way to brighten the finish. Furniture cleaner may be used. Scrub the cleaner and moisturizer into the surface and keep scrubbing until it starts to evaporate, then wipe off the excess with a dry cloth. You'll be amazed with the results. If your wood walls are just dry, bring them back to life by wiping on lemon oil.

• Cleaning Ceilings (and walls) - If your house is relatively new, make a bucket of soapy water and wipe the walls and ceiling with a damp sponge. If your house is older, you need something that cuts through the accumulated crud: a synthetic TSP solution.

Short for tri sodium phosphate, TSP removes greasy dirt like nothing else. Mix up a bucketful, wipe down the walls and ceiling, then rinse thoroughly with clean water. TSP etches paint. It will eventually dull a glossy finish. A TSP cleaning should be performed only when nothing else works.

If you are planning to paint your wall after cleaning with TSP, a leftover film of TSP prevents proper paint adhesion.

You may not realize it, but everything in your kitchen is covered with a thin coating of grease and gummy dust. And your bathroom walls have their own coating of gunk, including hairspray, cleaning products, and stuck-on dust.