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Here
are some essential tools to maintain your yard:
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Trowel
- Without a trowel, no perennials would be planted, no
containers potted and no bulbs buried in the ground. The strongest
trowels are made of steel and the lightest are made of cast aluminum.
Handles are fashioned of wood or easy-grip plastic. Those designed
with handle and blade all in one piece offer greater durability.
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Watering
can - Whether for spot-watering wilting plants or fertilizing
containers of annuals, a watering can is a garden essential. Generally,
those with a longer spout are better balanced. Easy-care, lightweight
plastic watering cans work just as well as the more attractive
brass and copper ones.
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Transplanting
spade - With its long, narrow blade, a transplanting
spade gets into tight spots in the garden, reducing the likelihood
of damage to nearby plants. It’s also more suitable than
traditional spades to dig holes deep enough to accommodate plant
roots.
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Fork
- A garden fork is indispensable for safely lifting out the roots
of an established perennial, dividing overgrown plants or harvesting
root vegetables. Stainless steel blades are the strongest.
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Pruners
- Keep overgrown shrubs and trees within bounds with a good pair
of secateurs or pruners. The by-pass types are better buys than
the anvil pruners because they make cleaner cuts. Look for secateurs
with a swivel handle – they’re easier on the wrist.
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Wheelbarrow
or garden cart - Wheelbarrows make light work of trucking
through the garden with heavy sacks of soil or unwieldy bags of
peat moss. Whether you choose a conventional wheelbarrow, a garden
cart, buggy or wagon, it’s sure to take a beating in the
garden so buy one of good quality.
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Edger
- Place the finishing touches on your garden with an
edger. This moon-shaped hand tool slices into the ground to create
a clean, sharp edge between flowerbeds and lawn.
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Soaker
hose - Sprinklers water lawns – soaker hoses irrigate
gardens. Placed at ground level, this perforated hose trickles
water into the soil, slowly delivering moisture to the root zone
– just where plants need it.
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Sprinkler
irrigation - Brown
spots in your lawn can mean bad sprinkler head coverage, which
is a good indication that a filter (or a head) is clogged and
needs cleaning. Spray
heads have water ports (nozzles) in a variety of arc patterns,
including full, half, and quarter, circle, and variable. A slot
cut in the edge of the head allows water to flow out in the arc
pattern.
Another kind of spray
head, a bubbler, discharges water in a 360-degree circle, but
instead of spraying, it lets out a gentle flow of water up to
3 feet from the head. Bubblers are used for smaller jobs, like
watering shrubs and plants. Often bubblers are dedicated to only
one plant or tree.
Spray heads can be
attached to fixed risers or to popup canisters that are buried
in the ground.
No matter what kind
of sprinkler head you have, it most certainly contains a filter
(or has one attached). Filters catch large pieces of debris that
can easily clog a sprinkler head. Every several years, you need
to clean or replace these filters. Just unscrew the sprinkler
head, pull the filter out of the riser, clean it, and then replace
the sprinkler head.
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Use a
clean lawn mower- electric, reel/push and newer 1997
gas models are cleaner running. Maintain your mower to help it
run cleaner--change the air filter, oil and corroded spark plugs
at least once each season. Keep the underside of the mower free
of grass build-up
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Spreaders
- There are two basic types of fertilizer spreaders for
use on the home lawn: the drop and the broadcast.
The
drop type spreader (shown at left) "drops" a set rate
of fertilizer. This type is best suited for a limited space in
order to avoid wide dispersal on sidewalks and driveways. The
amount of fertilizer that is spread depends on the opening setting,
the type of fertilizer used, and the speed at which the spreader
is pushed.
The broadcast
type, also called the rotary or cyclone type, (shown at right),
has a rotating disc that "throws out" a circular pattern
of fertilizer as it is pushed. This type is best suited for large
areas with a wide dispersal range to cover. Both types of spreaders
have opening settings for different fertilizer formulations. The
settings are only approximate at best, and it is important to
calibrate the spreaders before they are used.
Too much fertilizer
can be harmful to the lawn and may lead to water pollution through
run-off or leaching of nutrients. Some brands of fertilizers have
setting information on the bag; other brands don't. Since the
amount of nitrogen in fertilizers varies, remember that you should
be figuring your application rates from pounds of nitrogen needed,
not just pounds of product.
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Forecasters
are predicting below average rainfall for San Diego -The
following tips will help you keep your lawn healthy during drought
periods and still allow you to do your part to conserve water.
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Water
Efficiently - Don’t Skimp. If you have to cut back
on watering it is better to increase the time between watering
rather than increase the amount of water you apply during each
irrigation. Light sprinkling does little good for your lawn. Instead
water to a depth of six to eight inches to encourage deep rooting.
These deep roots offer grass a larger reservoir of moister to
draw from to withstand dry periods. To measure water penetration,
probe the soil with a stiff rod or screwdriver. The rod or screwdriver
will move easily through moist soil but will be harder to push
when it reaches dry soil. Do not to water at night but water early
morning. When watering in early morning you don't loose water
from evaporation like you would do during the middle of the day
and you do not enhance diseases (since the water will evaporate
from the leaf blades in a few hours) as you would by watering
late in the evening or a night (by watering late in the evening
the water sits there and provides and ideal conditions for disease
buildup).
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Watering
Trees - Water young trees regularly. Water every week
during dry weather. The first one to two years are especially
important for roots to become well established.
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Note
About Tree Roots - Tree roots spread to the tips of the
branches, often farther. Compacting the soil, cutting the roots,
or changing the level of the soil that covers the roots can slowly
kill existing trees. Before doing landscape or home construction
or underground utility work, consult an urban forester on how
to best work around existing trees and avoid tree problems
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Fertilizer
- Fertilize at the beginning of the growing season with
a product that contains a timed-release fertilizer that lasts
many weeks. Repeat according to package directions.
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Pest
control - Ants, roaches and other pests wander indoors
looking for food, water or a better environment. Stack wood away
from the house and off the ground on a base of elevated, pressure
treated 2 x 4 lumber . Inspect basement floors and exposed wood
in the basement for moisture, especially boards close to the ground.
Be sure to seal cracks around molding surrounding exteriors doors,
windows and openings in areas where utilities enter the house
or basement Spray the perimeter of your home against pests by
creating a preventive barrier in and around your house. Avoid
standing water in your garden by using a fountain or circulating
pump to water.
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Pruning
- Late winter is the perfect time to take a stroll around
your trees and shrubbery and get them into shape because the branch
structures are devoid of leaves and clearly exposed. This not
only makes the plant's architecture easier to see but also easier
to clean up. What's more, the spring blooming will rapidly heal
any accidental cuts from your shears.
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Topiary
- Topiary is the
pruning and training of a plant into a desired geometric or animal
shape. The procedure involves a pre-made animal wire armature
filled with moss. Here are the steps:
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Soak
the moss in water.
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Open
wire sculptures into its two (2) halves.
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Squeeze
out excess moisture in moss.
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Stuff
ears, feet, tail & nose with small amounts of moss at a time
using fingers or suggested tools to pack firmly.
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Decide
if you are going to decorate/plant the face
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Place
your first plug (it may be necessary to shake off excess soil)
into the face area without pressing against the wires.
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Gently
pull the longer stems of plant material through the wires.
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Gradually
push the root ball against the wire, continuing to pull plant
stems through.
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Gently
stuff some moss against the root ball, sides and base, to hold
the plant in place.
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Restrict
plant material to the sides and top of your piece: continue to
add moss and plant plugs in the first half of the wire frame.
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Repeat
steps 1-10 for the second half.
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Join
the two halves together using the plastic connectors provided,
usually at the top, bottom and sides. At first, pull together
until all parts join together. The nut picker is great for pulling
the end of the plastic wire back through the frame. Tighten, cut
off excess plastic.
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Trim
excess moss with scissors.
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Gently
place plant stems over frame, hold in place using wire fern picks
or if not available, cut and bend #20 wire into picks.
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Soak
complete frame in a bucket of diluted starter fertilizer or, if
too large, water with fertilizer.
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Keep
in a shaded area for several days out of the wind until plants
settle in.
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